1. Leave A Gap

It's important to leave gaps when tiling, as ceramic tiles can expand and contract due to environmental influences. Preparing tile joints can prevent adjacent tiles from exerting pressure on each other, thus avoiding hollowing or detachment. Additionally, leaving gaps between ceramic tiles can help reduce uneven seams and uneven tiling caused by variations in tile dimensions and manual installation errors.

2. Laying Direction

For ceramic tiles with distinct patterns, in order to achieve the desired visual effect after installation, it's important to follow the direction indicated by the arrow on the back of the tile during the tiling process. Failure to do so can result in mismatched patterns and potentially uneven surfaces.

3. Soaking Ceramic Tiles

It's important to soak ceramic tiles before installation, especially for porcelain tiles. This helps prevent the tiles from absorbing moisture from the cement mortar after laying, which could impact their bonding strength. Before tiling, immerse the tiles in clean water for a duration of at least 2 hours or until no more bubbles appear from the tiles. Once this is achieved, remove the tiles, allow them to air dry, and then proceed with the tiling process.

4. Cleaning Backside Grout

During the manufacturing process, ceramic tiles can develop a layer of white powder on their backside. This powder can create a barrier during tiling that affects the contact between the cement mortar and the tile, thus reducing bonding strength. Therefore, it's essential to properly address this issue before tiling. If necessary, you can thoroughly clean the back of the tiles before and after soaking, ensuring that no grout residue remains to guarantee proper adhesion.

5. Uniform Application of Bonding Material

Many craftsmen tend to apply cement mortar (or tile adhesive) using a trowel in a back-and-forth motion, curving the trowel while turning corners. This practice is incorrect because it results in an uneven surface with irregularly spaced notches. This can reduce the bonding area between the bonding material and the tile, weakening the adhesive strength.

The correct approach is as follows: On a level surface, use a notched trowel to evenly spread the tile adhesive, creating a uniform pattern of notches. This ensures proper bonding between the tiles and the substrate.

6. Pay Attention to Color Codes

For the same type of ceramic tiles, there can be slight color variations between different production batches. Manufacturers categorize tiles with similar colors under the same color code. If workers do not pay attention to color codes during tiling, it can lead to noticeable color differences between adjacent tiles.

Furthermore, some homeowners may not accurately calculate the required quantity of tiles during purchase, leading to the need for additional purchases later on. If they don't choose products from the same batch and color code as the original ones, there is a possibility of slight color discrepancies.

7. Grouting

After completing the ceramic tile installation, it's advisable to perform grouting approximately 24 hours later. Apply evenly mixed grout into the gaps between the tiles.

For those seeking enhanced aesthetics and having a sufficient budget, using colored grout. Colored grout provides better color choices and performance.

8. External Corners

An external corner, refers to the protruding angle formed by the intersection of two walls. When tiling with ceramic tiles, it's common to use a beveled edge treatment. This involves cutting the edges of the tiles at a 45-degree angle on the back, creating a 90-degree corner when the tiles are positioned. This method helps wrap the external corner neatly.

Some less conscientious tile workers might take shortcuts by simply abutting tiles at the corner, leaving the raw tile edges exposed, which doesn't look aesthetically pleasing. For a simpler installation, you can also use corner strips or trims to cover the external corners.

9. Floor Drain

Tiling plans that lack proper slope design and drainage capabilities are incorrect. For instance, creating a direct opening within the tile in the middle is a mistake.

The correct approach is as follows: Cut the tiles into four pieces along the diagonals. During tiling, arrange the tiles around the floor drain with a certain slope to create a recessed groove, and position the floor drain in the center. This ensures proper drainage and prevents water accumulation.

10. Water Absorption Rate

When tiling in areas prone to moisture, such as kitchens and bathrooms, it's important to consider the water absorption rate of the ceramic tiles. If the tiles have a high water absorption rate, they are more likely to turn yellow or exhibit color variations due to excessive water absorption after installation.

11. Water Absorption Rate

When tiling in areas prone to moisture, such as kitchens and bathrooms, it's important to consider the water absorption rate of the ceramic tiles. If the tiles have a high water absorption rate, they are more likely to turn yellow or exhibit color variations due to excessive water absorption after installation.

12. Cement Mortar Proportion

The key to the bonding strength of cement mortar lies in the proper ratio of cement to sand. Tiling experts suggest the following ratios for different applications:

For laying floor tiles, a common ratio is 1:3 (cement to sand), and the mortar should not be too thin.

For wall tiles, a ratio of 1:2 or 1:1 can be used, depending on the requirements.

For floor leveling, a 1:1 ratio of cement to sand is recommended, and it's also advised to use pure cement slurry.

Adhering to these recommended proportions ensures a strong and durable bond between the tiles and the substrate.

13. Cement Grade

The grade of cement used in mortar can indirectly affect its bonding performance with tiles. A cement grade that is too low might result in poor adhesion between the tiles and the cement mortar, leading to hollow tiles. On the other hand, a cement grade that is too high can cause tiles to crack due to excessive shrinkage after moisture evaporation.

When purchasing cement, it is generally recommended to use Grade 42.5, which corresponds to Cement Type 32.5 for tiling purposes. Following this standard ensures a balanced bonding and setting process that helps prevent tile detachment or cracking.

14. Substrate Preparation

Proper preparation of the substrate (the underlying surface) is crucial for successful tiling. Before tiling, the substrate must be thoroughly cleaned to ensure that all types of debris and plaster have been removed. It's advisable to wet the substrate a day before tiling, maintaining a humidity level between 30% and 70%.

Additionally, details like substrate flatness, potential hollows and cracks in new walls or floors, and the integrity of any waterproofing or scratch coat layers should be carefully checked before tiling. These considerations ensure a solid foundation for the tile installation process.

15. Watch Out for Sand and Gravel

Construction sites often have sand and gravel present, and accidentally stepping on or dragging these materials over tiles can easily result in scratches. Therefore, it's important to take precautions to protect the tiles on the construction site. For instance, once floor tiles are laid, you can temporarily cover them with cardboard or protective paper. Additionally, it's advisable to avoid dragging heavy construction equipment across the tiles to prevent potential damage.

16. Waterproofing

For spaces such as bathrooms and balconies, it's essential to apply a proper waterproofing layer before tiling. If the original waterproofing layer is compromised during construction, it must be repaired or replaced to ensure proper waterproofing. Additionally, it's important to conduct a 24-hour water test to confirm that there are no leaks after waterproofing is applied. This helps prevent water damage and ensures a watertight environment.

17. Prompt Cleaning of Adhesive Residue

One hour after tiling, it's important to promptly clean any cement, grout, or other adhesive residues from the surface of the tiles. These substances can become more difficult to remove if left for an extended period, especially grout, which can become quite stubborn to clean after around four hours of drying time.

18. Inspecting Tile Installation

After 12 hours of tiling, it's important to conduct a thorough inspection of the tile installation, checking for issues such as hollow tiles or cracks. If any defects are identified, it's recommended to rectify the situation by re-tiling the affected areas. This timely inspection helps ensure the quality and durability of the tile installation.

19. Drilling Holes in Tiles

When drilling holes in tiles, it's best to choose the joint area between two tiles as the drilling point. If that's not possible, you can select a spot in the center of a tile. It's advisable to avoid drilling holes near the edges of the tile, as this can easily lead to tile breakage.

Additionally, before drilling, it's important to check for any hollow tiles. If a tile is hollow, it's crucial to select a different drilling location, as drilling into a hollow tile can result in tile fragmentation and detachment.

20. Hole Size

When making openings for water outlets on walls, it's important to ensure that the cut is appropriately sized. If the hole is too large, it can expose gaps and be visually unappealing. If the design calls for a circular hole, then cut it as a circle instead of opting for a square hole that might end up looking unsightly.